Gimhae Celadon Ceramics Fesival

A festival, chook-jae, as we call them here, was in store last weekend. It was a ceramics festival which had traditional Korean pottery on display. We went with our friends Mike and Alissa to Gimhae which is about 15 minutes from Busan for all you geographers. The trip there which was composed of 6 buses and two taxi rides round trip, was very interesting and half of the experience.

We have found many of the Korean festivals to be similar in style. They always have the long white rows of tents, the food areas, the carnival areas, and a huge stage that is well equipped the latest in lights and sound.

A far as the pottery went, it was very interesting. We had fun analyzing the many styles and techniques.

There were some booths with expensive, artistic and individually unique pieces with more of a art only appeal. Other potters had some very original, reasonably priced pieces which were geared towards functionality and, some had cheap mass produced factory pieces.

The large celadon vases/pots were very very expensive ranging in prices from $1000 to as much as $30,000 for the wood fired pieces. We treated those booths like museums.

Traditional Korean tea cups.

They had an area where children could practice their pottery skills.

Korean celadon is a highly celebrated and specialized art. The secrets of celadon craftsmanship date back to the 10 and 11th centuries. We learned that it was one of the principal interests in Japanese invasions. The Japanese, sought after and took many extremely valuable celadon relics as well as the craftsmen who were seasoned professionals of the trade. Even today it is illegal to export a special blend of clay from central Korea that is used specifically for the finest of pieces.

Traditionally wood fired kilns were used for firing, but with the introduction of gas and electric kilns, the production of fine ceramics was streamlined. This, therefore reduced the number of flawed pieces and lowered prices, allowing more celadon to be used as a functional pottery for middle and even lower classes. The wood fired pieces remain extremely valuable.

We had the chance to see some traditional kilns that were in use for the festival. The kilns stayed fired for three days at a few thousand degrees. We were happened to be there for the most exciting stage of the process. The opening of the kilns. A friendly Korean man by the name of Charlie (no kidding), who spoke fantastic English came up to us and offered to explain everything. What a surprise. As the bricks were removed and the artists climbed inside. We began to hear smashing and breaking. Charlie explained that if there were minute flaws in the piece it was destroyed. Only the finest results of the firing were kept. We learned that three out of ten pieces met the artists standards on a good day. Not a single flawed piece is sold or spared. Wood firing is tricky and they have a reputation to uphold.

Many beautiful pieces emerged from the small dark brick holes. They were very very expensive pieces explained Charlie. One large vase had a bubble in the backside. We watched the artist pick up a brick obliterated the vessel. It was very sad.

A peek at the pots inside the kiln, nervously awaiting inspection and removal.

Seeing the kilns and speaking to Charlie was the highlight of the day. Although the rest of the festival was very typical of the others that we have attended, it was an adventure. Who could complain about that? We loved it.

망산 Mangsan- A Mountain Top

The weather really took a turn for the better a few weeks ago. Honestly is has clouded up again, but for the time that we had the beautiful blue sky we made the most of it. Our good friends Mike and Alissa accompanied us to the southern tip of the island. It is a very fun trail to hike because of the loop that it makes. You never see the same thing twice. We had hiked this mountain loop once before in March when we had first arrived in Korea. The difference between the summer and winter is very obvious. (September and March) Although it is not exactly the same shot, which I should have coordinated better, it conveys the idea.

The shipping industry, as I have mentioned in other posts, is the mainstay of Korean commerce and especially of our Island. Here is a barge carrying two pieces of a hull for a ship that will be many times its size. The enormity of size is difficult to comprehend.

The rice from above. I was amazed at the clarity of the water. I made me feel like I was back in Bali. It must have been the lighting and the angle.

There were a number of rock outcroppings throughout the hike. Always good vantage points and picnic locations.The summit.

All of the hikes in Korea have flags which are attached to trees all along the trail. Here they were concentrated at the top, on this one tree. They appear to be advertisements for company hiking groups, but remind me of the flags in Nepal, which I hope to see someday.

It wasn't all trail. There was some scrambling as well.

A mountain top chat.

It was a good day to be in the great outdoors.

Thanks for staying posted. Pass the blog on to all those who you believe would appreciate it. Stay in touch.

Tegalalang and the Elephant Temple

Hey there everyone. We have actually been home for about two weeks now, which is hard to believe, but we still wanted to share the rest of our trip with you. Besides, now that we are back, it doesn't seem quite as exciting here as our trip was for some reason.

One afternoon we hired a driver to take us on a trip up to the Tegalalang rice paddies. It was about a 30 minute drive, and we went about half an hour before sunset. It had been a full day and we really enjoyed the scenery along the way.
As the road carved through the jungle and along rivers and smaller rice patties we admired the piles of coconuts, counted how many people could fit on a scooter, and waved to kids along the side of the road. Before we knew it we were driving next this deep valley with rice terraces.

Chelsie and I really enjoyed having our friends Mike and Alissa around to hang out and travel with. They are really layed back and love to have fun.

The majority of the paddies were not planted as they had just been harvested.

It was a sight to see. The terraces stacked and stacked. They meandered down the valley as far as one could see.

Our driver warned us and we encountered the aggressive local salesmen who didn't take no for an answer. They pleaded, pushed, and begged. It was a little unnerving. We also encountered kids selling post cards. Their bartering skills were well tuned, so we caved to this one young lady.

We got a cute picture and some post cards in exchange for two dollars.

A stop that we made the following day, and were glad that we did, was the Elephant Cave.

Which was home to a small rock elephant statue. When we got there a local tagged along with us for a while giving us a "tour" and was actually taking pictures for us. At first I thought that he worked at the temple, and then I remembered reading in the guide books that the locals would first give you the tour, and then try and charge you afterward. After about five minutes this all clicked, and I brought it up. We had started the $20 tour according to him, and so I very kindly explained that we were not planing on taking a tour nor did we want to continue to be taken on a tour. He argued, I was persistent, he finally went away.

In the jungle near the cave were many enormous trees.

This was a mean burial cave that had its entrance carved in stone with a gaping mouth for a door.

We ventured inside. It was cool, damp, and creepy. There were vaults carved into the stone through out the interior.

Back out in the fresh air there was a bathing spring that was believed to contain holy water healing powers. We dipped our feet, but we didn't drink.

Exploring is exciting. At times we are amazed, at times disappointed. Its all part of the adventure, and that is what is most fun.

Catching Up

Hey there everyone, it has been a few days since we have let you all know what is up. We have been exploring and relaxing. I believe that we are well adjusted now, life seems to have slowed down now.


During the Korean War, Geoje, our island, was used as a POW camp for the North Korean soldiers. It was neat to study the transition that our tiny valley has undergone. The now bustling city was nothing but POW tents and barbed wire about 50 years ago. The city we know as Gohyeon has developed from a small fishing village to a key in Korean shipbuilding industry. You can see the city in a previous posting we made on March 16th.

A mural/diorama of what the valley looked like during the Korean war.

A picture of what the valley looks like today.

THE EDIBLES

We really have enjoyed the summer plethora of fresh fruits and vegetables we have come across in the market.

My sweetie has been working her chef like magic in the kitchen. She has turned out dozens of creative dishes over the past month.

Pastas......

Soups.......

and Salads.

BAMBOO

The last photos I posted of bamboo arts and crafts were very popular. So much so, that I decided to give you all an update of the latest, in and out of the workshop. Can you guess what is going together here?

DAY 1

HMM, you might be right......

DAY 2

And yes, you are correct. Mikey and I are building a bamboo boat.

For those who are curious, here are some details of the construction project. Yes, it is a bit to read, but for those who do I believe that you will find the humorous narrative worth your while.


The week we visited the shipbuilding museum on the June 7th posting Mike and I put our heads together and decided that it would be cool to design and build a bamboo boat/raft. After researching many designs we decided against a raft, because we learned that green bamboo doesn't float. I read numerous stories about people building green rafts and then having them sink after the "grand launch ceremony". We opted for more of a over sized welsh coracle. After hashing out some design options we set off to find a convenient location where there was a good supply of the raw materials. I have talked to a number of Koreans about "just cutting bamboo in the woods" and none have said that there were any regulations or laws against it so long as you are not on private property. Well Mikey and I tromped up the mountain behind our house and found a newly made cemetery area, there are many, in which they had actually dozed a bunch of trees and bamboo into a pile. We set up shop. Day one was slow very little accomplishment was made. We fiddled around with designs and broke a few sticks trying to bend them, but came out with the general shape and size of what we wanted.

Day 2 was much more progressive. We were able to fashion a hull and begin to put some sides in place. While constructing the second day we had an unexpected visitor. Looking up from our work Mike said, "hey look, we have company", and gestured to the underbrush. There was a Korean man peeking in on the project. We gave him a smile and waved him over. He moved closer to inspect what we were up to. He didn't speak a word of English, but we were able to communicate some with gestures and the bits of Korean that we knew. Mike nicknamed him "Dude", and we learned that his house was about 300 yards down the mountain. I guess he heard us building. We inquired as to if he had anyone buried in the grave yard which we were working in. "Anio" he replied indicating that he had neither friends nor family buried there. After standing around for a while, Mike and I decided to continue our work. Dude stood by chain smoking his Korean cigarettes and monitoring our progress. We still were not sure if he approved of our project, but what can you say when you don't speak much Korean. He begun to motion that he disapproved of us cutting bamboo and we were like, "darnit". Mike made a trip to the pile of bulldozed trees with the saw. Dude followed. Mike pointed at the downed lumber and began to show where our supply was from. Dude paused, looked at the boat and then demanded the saw. Mike handed it over. Dude stepped up to a nearby live stick of bamboo and proceeded to cut it down. Mike and I exchanged glances and watched speechlessly as Dude timbered the tree and drug it up by the boat and then went back for the second kill. He liked our project and indicated that we were thinking well. He continued to help us for the next half-hour and then asked us in Korean if we liked coffee, "Coppee?". After giving him the thumbs up, he disappeared into the underbrush toward his house and returned about ten minutes later with hot coffee.

Life is always interesting when you are in another culture. Learning to communicate is the funniest part. Signals, gestures, body language, and broken bits of the native or foreign tongue are exchanged in the attempt of understanding one another. The fascination with the other culture is strong enough that one can usually manage to get by. Our boat close to completion now. We are looking for a good tarp at the local hardware stores to stretch over the underside. Yes, more communication difficulties, but fun and challenging. Well keep you updated.

Here are some more crafts that I have made in the indoor workshop.

Votive candle holder
Accent lighting for our living room

The floor fixture

Mugs.

I finally got the handles figured out. (Use fire)

Traditional loose leaf tea strainer. I saw these at Insadong when we were in Seoul.

A basket. This project was difficult, fun, and definitely rough.

An incense holder complete with a latching hatch lid.

We went out with some fellow teachers this week to "Shabbu, Shabbu". Sorry I don't know the translation for the restaurant name but their specialty, soup is fantastic. They bring out a huge pot with the base broth to you table and place it on top of the inset burner. You then add, stir, and cook the ingredients as you go. Meat, vegetables and greens, mushrooms, fresh made noodles all consist of the first part. Then when you have eaten all of that you add rice and an egg to the remaining broth to make a delicious, flavor filled porridge. Not a bit is wasted.

That is about it for now. I have more but I will save it for another posting which I will not wait so long for next time. Thanks for staying in touch. If you want a post card let us know.